December 6, 2016 by Charlotte Kaufman

How to Quilt a Quilt

In English, the word quilt is both a noun and a verb. You can make a quilt, and you can quilt one. When I was first learning about quilting, several times I tried the search phrase ‘how to quilt a quilt’ but I rarely got the information I was looking for. I’m hoping this post will find its way to others who were looking for the information I couldn’t find as a new quilter.

It took me awhile to discover all the methods of quilting and I’m still learning more to this day. If there is another technique you are aware of that isn’t in this article, please share in the comments!

Quilting by hand

The two methods of finishing a quilt sandwich (the term for the classic three layers of a quilt: top, batting, bottom) by hand are hand tying and hand stitching. Quilts have been around since the dawn of time but for a large portion of our recorded history they were highly functional, as opposed to decorative, or a form of art or hobby. Hand tying and hand stitching were quick and effective ways of completing a quilt sandwich.

Hand tying

Images via Quilting in the Rain, WikiHow, Selvage Blog, Craftsy.

Hand tying or tufting a quilt is a method of spacing out knots every 4” to 8”across a quilt’s surface. While a square knot is the most common method of tying, quilters can get as creative as they like, using a Sheath stitch, for example, or other forms of embroidery knots.

Hand stitching

Images via Jennifer Causey, Shiny Happy World, Tied With a Ribbon, and The Sewing Directory.

Even after sewing machines began to be used for creating quilts, hand stitching remained the preferred method for finishing a quilt for a long time. Today even modern quilters love this method and value the hand crafted look it gives finished quilts.

Machine quilting

Machine quilting with a walking foot. Image via charlottekaufman.com.

Machine quilting generally comes in three forms, quilting done with a walking foot, free motion quilting (FMQ), and long arm quilting (a variation of FMQ).

Walking foot

Images via charlottekaufman.com.

While a regular foot can be used to finish a quilt, walking feet are preferred because of their method of allowing all three layers of the quilt sandwich to travel evenly under the needle at the same time. The only limitation to quilting with a walking foot is that the needle always moves forward so you must move the quilt on your own and unless you have a machine with a long neck, and this can be cumbersome. I’ve been eyeing this Janome at Sewing Machines Plus because of how much neck room it gives. Oh to quilt with such a lovely machine!

Free Motion Quilting (FMQ)

Images via Charlotte Kaufman of SewSewSewYourBoat.com.

Free motion quilting (FMQ) is a ton of fun. In this style of quilting you can move the fabric in any direction you’d like as you sew. This allows for beautiful curves and detailed designs that a walking foot just can’t give you. A special foot is connected to the presser foot and you must lower the feed dogs of your machine in order for FMQ to work. Here are some examples of my own FMQ. You would be very hard pressed to do this kind of work with a walking foot.

Long Arm Quilting

Images via Free Range Quilter and Schnigschnag Quilts and More.

Long arm quilting is when a sewing machine can do FMQ on a large scale. In long arm quilting quilts are put on a frame and the quilter than moves the neck of the machine over sections of fabric at a time to create gorgeous and intricate designs. These machines can be prohibitively expensive for some but many long arm quilters find that by offering their services to other quilters they quickly pay off the cost of the machine. Sewing Machines Plus offers monthly payment plans and financing if you are thinking of getting one of these gorgeous machines. I’ve looked longingly at this King Quilter and this Juki Long Arm.

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Charlotte Kaufman is a writer and sewist in Mammoth Lakes, California. She specializes in marine and home interiors and continues to fall more and more in love with quilting. You can follow her at charlottekaufman.com.

December 6, 2016December 6, 2016 by Vanessa Nirode

Getting In

Whenever I tell people what I do for a living (Tailor and Pattern Maker for film and television) they inevitably say one of two things.

“Wow. How did you get into that?” or “What a cool job!” Sometimes acquaintances will ask me if I can talk to their niece or son or daughter’s friend or cousin or something and give them advice on how to ‘break into’ the business.

I’m never entirely sure what sort of advice to give. As Hunter S. Thompson said (or maybe didn’t say depending on who you ask),

The TV business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs. There is also a negative side.

There is some truth in that Hunter quote. Especially now when the major networks are increasingly concerned with cost and ratings and everyone wants to do more (and more) with less money. Period television is quite popular right now. The only problem with that is that period television is hard, perhaps the hardest genre.

“But, why?” you may ask, “It looks like so much fun!”

The Devil is in the details

Here’s the thing: period TV is expensive. You have to dress every single background actor and actress as well as the principals. On shows such as Law and Order, often the background (BG) performers are wearing something selected from their own personal closet. What generally happens is that the BG will come to work with a few clothing options. An assistant designer will usually pick which of these options is best and that’s what the actor will wear. Most people don’t have closets full of 1920s or 1880s clothing so, on a period show, the entire costume is provided, fit, and altered. This takes more time and manpower which, in turn, takes more money.

TV is also fast – faster than filming a movie. Most shows shoot an episode in 8 to 10 days, with at least a day or two when they are shooting two episodes at once. (We call those tandem days.) Because of this, you never really get any down time. On a movie, there is most always a point where you’re over the hump – you’ve established all the costumes needed. Or you’re working on something where all the action takes place on the same day and no one changes their clothes. Then, all you need to worry about is multiples and the rest of the work is up to the set costume crew who keep track of continuity and make sure everyone looks how they should in front of camera.

Do your thing & do it GREAT

I guess if I were to give one piece of advice I would say to become really good at the thing you want to do. Then, figure out how to do it very quickly if needed. I may have said this before (I say it a lot) but there are lots of good tailors and pattern makers out there. What there isn’t a lot of are exceptional tailors and pattern makers who can also work really fast. If you want to work in TV and film that will definitely give you an advantage.

As far as finding TV and film jobs, talk to people, contact your city’s (or state’s) film commission. Word of mouth is still the best way to find a job in this business.

Mind your manners

And be nice to everyone, even if you think they have no ‘influence’ or are looking for the same kind of job as you are. You never know who knows who and you never know when someone might need help because they have more work than they can handle on their own.

Oh, and that “What a cool job!” comment… Some days it is and some days it isn’t. I can assure you there is nothing glamorous about it but, at the same time, it is also rarely boring.

December 6, 2016 by Connie Smith

Tree Skirts and Fabric Blocks

DIYs & Tutorials, Featured, Sewing, Tips & Tricks
Christmas, Christmas Tree, crazy blocks, decorate, fabric block, holiday DIY, holidays, ideas, patchwork, piecing, tree skirt
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I’ve had planned indoor picnics with my nieces for the sake of Valentine’s Day and Halloween.

Christmas is even closer than it was when my last blog about homemade, sewn gifts was posted, so it seems fitting to keep with the holiday vibe! Whether or not I mentioned this earlier, I’m a fan of holidays to the point that I’ve had planned indoor picnics with my nieces for the sake of Valentine’s Day and Halloween, so don’t be too surprised if you see a good number of holiday topics when the big ones roll around!

I’ve been browsing online to try and find an interesting Christmas project to check out, and I came across a concept that is really fitting this season: a tree skirt. You see, we have one, but we changed Christmas stockings this year. The new ones aren’t the best of matches to the old tree skirt, so we’re currently going tree-skirt-less for the sake of coordination. Basically, the idea of constructing a tree skirt is a logical notion for a Christmas project this year!

Let’s decorate!

I’ve come across more than one option including a fancy scalloped one that caught my eye, but being the patchwork girl that I am, I was more drawn to a patchwork-looking design. As easy as the overall pattern might seem to some, the idea of creating my own blocks with multiple patterns is a bit daunting to me. Usually, I just use pieces of material—one piece per section—and I don’t know that I’ve ever tried to piece together my own block. For that reason, it seems reasonable to do some research before potentially diving into the process. As I’ve said before, doing research can make a sewing process smoother, and should I try this, I want it to go smoothly!

And maybe certain readers are in the same boat with me on this one—interested in moving into elaborate blocks, but unskilled in the technique. If so, keep reading! I’m going to hand over some general ideas that I’ve found that could help with the process!

Where to start…

Tip #1: Press your material! This is a simple step, though one that can easily go overlooked. Even if you want to just jump into constructing your project, taking the time to level out the fabric you’ll use can help in making sure things line up as they should. So before you sew the first stitch, break out that iron!

Pressing is also something to keep in mind during the process when you sew fabric together. If you connect two blocks of fabric, press that seam! As you connect more material, your blocks will be less likely to have random bumps or puffy spots because the act of pressing as you go will ideally have smoothed out troublesome areas before additional pieces get locked in. That kind of consistency—no puffiness where it shouldn’t be—can create uniformity. You can even get pressing sprays to help solidify the effect!

Around the block

Tip #2: Learn the basics of block patterns! Are you planning a four patch product? Nine patch? It helps to think about those concepts before you start piecing your product so you can plan the design and get an idea of how you’re going to structure your work. This might be particularly true if you’re planning a five patch product since basic mathematics will let you know that such a pattern does not divide evenly by two! There’s a technique for each of these blocks, and being aware of those techniques can help you through the process. You can find out more about those pattern options here.

Crazy square block.

Once you get comfortable with the more traditional and beginner-friendly possibilities, maybe you can work your way into something less typical, like a “Crazy square block” of material.

Color theory

The color wheel.

Tip #3: Get to know your color options! One site recommends the use of the color wheel, and I think this strategy might be a good one. While aesthetics might be subjective, decisions on color are still something to take seriously before you begin stitching. This, I think, could be particularly true when you’re creating your own block from a series of fabrics. Instead of just having 50 or so segments of color on one product—one per block—you could end up with various colors per block, which leads into a whole lot of color-consideration territory!

If you want to go with a cool tone, for instance, how easily could you do a nine patch product with different variations of color per block—one for greens, one for blues… That example is a perfect illustration of why knowing your colors could be so important. If you don’t know too many shades of cool colors, you might not have the background knowledge that would help you create the cool color, nine patch work. Basically, if you want a cohesive final product of multiple fabrics per block, think about those colors while you consider your fabrics!

Measure twice, cut once

Tip #4: Be exact with your measurements! This one might be a bit obvious—or really obvious—but it’s worth noting. Not only should you make sure your blocks are consistent in size for the best possibility of a final product, but you should make sure the individual sections of the block are measured accurately. Doing so could keep embarrassing things from happening—like running out of fabric in your squares before you get to the end of a block or having excess. Either mistake could lead to the overall product looking off because every block wouldn’t have the same mistakes. If you want uniformity throughout, measure!

Even if Christmas is too close for this concept to result in a 2016 tree skirt, this is still something I can keep in mind for next year. In fact, new goal!

~ Make a home-sewn tree skirt. ~

I wonder if 2017 – me will hate all of these goals I’m tossing her way? If so, maybe she can appreciate it if there’s a by-hand product decorating the bottom of the tree next year!

December 6, 2016 by Sarah Woodard

Sewing Goals for the New Year

This time of year I start to think about what goals I want to achieve in the upcoming year. I usually break them down into three categories. One, career. Two, personal life. And three, hobbies. Over the years, hobby goals have included everything from beekeeping to knitting. This year, I’m thinking about setting sewing goals.

Attempt Something I’ve Never Made Before

My typical sewing projects are dresses and skirts or modifying existing clothing. I’ve also made a few home décor items like curtains and pillow covers. I’ve never done a shirt or anything with a button hole. I’ve never made a jacket or anything with super thick material. I have made a wedding gown, so I know I can take on complex projects requiring me to learn new things. Next year may just be the year I master button holes, or least attempt a shirt.

Find More Scrap Fabric Uses

I not only have my own fabric scraps, I also have scraps from my mother and great grandmother. If I was a quilter, I could make a fabulous memory quilt with all of it, but that’s not really my thing. For the upcoming year, I’d like to use up my scraps so that I can use the closet space for other things.

Organize Thread Spools

Right now, my spools are tossed in a plastic bin with a bunch of other sewing related supplies. I have a terrible time finding the colors I want and an even harder time untangling the threads from each other when I do find the right color. Next year, I want to get my thread organized in such a way that they’re easy to find and aren’t all tangled together.

Expand My Color Palate

I seem to always be drawn to the same colors in the fabric store. This means I wind up with a fairly monochrome wardrobe. For next year, I’m going to set a rule for myself about how much of any one color palate I’m allowed to purchase in an effort to force myself to expand my choices. Purple and blue are pretty, but so are all the other colors. And I do get sick of wearing the same colors over and over, so maybe this will help.

Buy a Fabric Board

I used to have this awesome cardboard mat that made it easy to lay out fabric and measure it against the lines on the board. It kept the fabric off the floor too. Sadly, it got wet at some point and became useless. I never got around to replacing it. Next year, that will change. I do miss the ease it provided as well as the solid surface. Because it was cardboard, I could pin the fabric to it so it wouldn’t slip around like it does on my wood floors or on the table top.

What are you sewing goals for the upcoming year?

December 6, 2016 by Millie Green

Janome 634D Serger Review

Why should you buy a Janome 634D serger? A serger is the one tool that can quickly boost your sewing to pro level, and the Janome 634D serger is my choice for the serger to buy. Janome has earned my loyalty with their always well-designed machines; I know I can trust this brand to provide high performance and quality. Janome packs all their machines with user friendly features, and the 634D is no exception:

Janome 634D features

1 or 2 needle serging
Serge with 2, 3, or 4 threads
Lay-in threading
Automatic threader for lower looper
Retractable cutting blade
Easy switch between serging and rolled hemming
Adjustable stitch length
Variable differential feed: from 0.5 to 2.25
Cutting width adjusts from 2.0 to 5.7 mm
Spool pins, caps, and nets for greater thread choice
High presser foot clearance
Snap-on presser feet
Thread cutter
Seam guide
Waste catcher
Accessory box
2 access doors
Convenient carry handle

While this impressive list of features is enough to convince anyone that the Janome 634D is an excellent value, choice machine, there is more to it than this.

Janome 634D is fast, quiet, compact and smooth

Janome 634D Serger Review

This sweet baby sews 1,300 stitches per minute, which means you can get a lot more done in a fraction of the time. For comparison, most regular sewing machines sew between 700-900 stitches per minute. It sews quickly but quietly, and makes much less noise than many other sergers.

Though the 634D is equipped with a strong motor, its housing is compact for easy portability. Measuring just 16x16x16 inches, it easily fits a small table and is not a monster to move. It weighs in at less than 21lbs, so it won’t hurt your back to carry it with the convenient, built-in handle.

That strong motor serges smoothly. My first Janome serger was a more economy model, and while it works well, I had to place a thick rubber pad underneath it to prevent it from jiggling all over the table. No mat is needed with this Janome, however; the 634D is a smooth operator.

I would describe the motor on the economy Janome machines as being like a Honda Civic; they are dependable and sturdy and a great and affordable way to get you where you want to go. In contrast, the Janome 634D “drives” more like an Acura, with more power, speed, and a smoother ride.

The Janome 634D offers more options

This machine offers almost endless options for serging. It can do a 2 thread stitch, whereas lesser models need at least 3 threads. The Janome 634D can use from 2, 3, or 4 threads. It can also use either 1 or 2 needles. The cutting width is highly adjustable, offering a wide range of possible options. You can even disengage the cutting blade entirely and serge without cutting at all.

The Janome 634D can also further save on thread, because it comes standard with 4 spool caps and nets, allowing you to use regular spools of thread as an alternative to larger serger cones. The spool pins will accommodate the serger cones, too, of course; you can use either type of thread with this serger.

The Janome 634D is especially easy to use

Other makes of serger require you to change plates when switching between conventional sergering and rolled hemming. It is common to move back and forth between these two options, and Janome makes this much easier to do. Instead of having to switch out plates, you simply move a switch to change between serging and rolled hemming. The presser feet are easy to change, too; they simply snap on and off, with no trouble at all.

This serger also has automatic threading for the lower looper. It takes a lot of patience and attention to thread the loopers on other machines, but threading the Janome 634D couldn’t be easier. There are clear diagrams printed right on the inside of the machine for ease in threading the guides. And instead of praying for patience to thread a tricky lower looper, you just push a button and it is magically threaded for you!

Another thing that I really appreciate about the Janome 634D is it that it is neater and easier to clean than other models. It has a handy waste-catching tray built in, so your sewing room floor will not be littered with thread tails and the trimmings your serger cuts from your seams and projects. Furthermore, it includes 2 doors, one on the front and one on the side, which more easily enables thorough cleaning.

Buy yours now

This machine could quickly take you from home sewist to professional seamstress. You need this reliable workhorse machine and now is a great time to buy it, since it is on sale at a great price. Quit wishing for one and go ahead and order yours now!