What I Do at Work All Day (Part 2)

What I Do at Work All Day (Part 2)

(As promised) The Dart and Drop

Pinned side back seam.

Pinned side back seam.

I do a lot of suit alterations. Sometimes I alter up to eight suits in a single day.

Often, suit jackets fit well in the shoulders but are a bit too roomy in the body. Because of the inner canvas and the inevitable front pocket, you can’t really successfully alter the front of a suit jacket. You need to take in at the center back or side back seams. While pinning, you’ll usually notice that you need to take in the side back seam all the way into the armseye.

This presents the conundrum of:

  1. Should I also take in the sleeve so it will still fit?
  2. Do I need to get into that seam at all?
  3. Do I really need to take the sleeve out?

The answers are no, yes and yes. Do not take in the sleeve. Do take the bottom part of the sleeve out.

Men’s suit jackets are traditionally cut without an actual side seam. The place where you really want/need to take a jacket in, though, is often in that invisible side seam. The way to accomplish this is by using the dart and drop method.

The Dart

Dart pinned into side seam.

Dart pinned into side seam.

Take the lining out and the underarm sleeve apart from the side back seam to a few inches in the front of the side seam. There should be a notch in the jacket to indicate where the side seam would be if there were one. If no notch is present, lay the jacket flat on a table, buttoned up. Where the jacket naturally folds will indicate basically where that side seam is. Mark with chalk on the wrong side of the fabric in the coat body and in the sleeve.

Next, from the wrong side of the fabric, fold on the notch. At the top, measure in the amount you need to take in (as you determined by pinning your side back seam). Then draw a dart from that point down about 3 or 4 inches (or until you run into the top of the pocket). Sew the dart. You can put the same dart in the lining or you can simply do a tuck. Either is fine.

The Drop

The next step is to redraw your underarm seam. The armseye should remain the same size as it originally was. To do this, drop the underarm seam. I suspect there may be some actual formula for this but I’m more of an intuitive sewer. Dropping an inch is usually a good place to start. Use a curved ruler

to draw the new line making sure the connections are smooth. Pin your sleeve at your new side seam an inch below the original seam line. Then pin the rest. You might have to undo more of the original seam if the sleeve isn’t fitting. Do this in the back until you can easily fit the sleeve back in without any excessive easing.

Don’t Worry

Pinned underarm seam.

Pinned underarm seam.

If you end up having to undo part of the shoulder pad and sleeve header, that’s fine. Just reattach them once you have put your sleeve back in.

You can apply the same principle to jackets (or really anything) that have side seams. Unless you want to narrow the sleeve, dropping the armseye is a more accurate way to accomplish this alteration.

At this point I also want to add a little something about the idea of ‘a right way’ to do something. I don’t believe there is only one right way to do things.

Sewing jacket with side seam.

Sewing jacket with side seam.

I ran the costume building shop for Boardwalk Empire for four years. It was a shop full of talented tailors from all sorts of backgrounds and places (Russia, Uzbekistan, Turkey, Tunisia & various U.S. states). We had a running joke about people who insist that their way of doing things is the only way (We even had a little song called, “There’s only one right way to do things. The other ways are wrong…”).

Walk Your Own Path

You need to figure out the way of doing things that works best for you while accomplishing the desired result. Sometimes someone can show you a whole new way of doing something that makes it easier for you. Sometimes not.

The tips and tricks I write about are the things I’ve learned work best for me over the years. Hopefully they will prove to be useful to someone else as well.

Missed Part 1? Check it out here!

Doggie Leggings Pillowcase

Doggie Leggings Pillowcase

Awesome doggie leggings!

Awesome doggie leggings!

“Mom, my doggie leggings don’t fit anymore!! I love them, Mom, don’t throw them away!” To save these precious doggies for eternity, my daughter’s distress signal turned into the Doggie Leggings Pillowcase.

Leggings are a very popular fashion trend today. I’ve seen hundreds of unique, bright designs on websites, in stores, and worn by passers-by. I’ve admired many of the designs and agreed with my daughter that creating something with them would preserve their awesomeness 🙂

Fair warning, everything except the zipper was measured, cut, and sewn by my 7 yr old daughter. The pieces aren’t straight, the stitching is all off, the corners look funny. But that’s ok, it’s awesome the way it is because she made it. It turned out to be a great learning project for her. She’s super proud of it, and so am I.

Level: Beginner

Time to Complete: In An Evening

Sewn By Machine: 1/4 in. straight stitch

**Tip: Wash all new materials prior to use to avoid shrinkage when you wash it.

**ProTip: Iron cut pieces before sewing and in between each step. This helps in the sewing process as well as setting the stitches to lessen unraveling with age. Often, the end results tend to look more professional.

**All measurements based on a craft pillow I already had. Measurements should be adjusted to fit the size of the pillow you are working with. I typically add an extra 1/2″ to measurements when I do a zippered pillowcase to allow for the extra bulk of the pillow.

Materials:

1 – 13″ L x 13″ W  Leggings (side 2)

1 – 5″ L x 8″ W Leggings (side 1)

2 – 4″ L x 13″ W Pink/Purple Material (side 1)

2 – 6″ L x 3″ W Pink/Purple Material (side 1)

1 Zipper, Cut to Fit After Pillowcase is Finished – measuring for zipper after pillowcase is assembled helps ensure the zipper isn’t too short

1 Zipper Foot – to use when sewing on zipper

  1. Sew top strip to top of side 2 Leggings, right sides together. Repeat for bottom strip.

    Step 1

    Step 1

  2. Sew right side strip to right side 2 Leggings, right sides together.
  3. Sew top of side strip to bottom of top strip. Make sure corner with Legging is sewed shut.

    Attaching sides.

    Attaching sides.

  4. Sew bottom of side strip to top of bottom strip. Make sure corner with Legging is sewed shut.
  5. Repeat steps 2-4 for left side strip.

    Zipper foot.

    Zipper foot.

  6. Sew side 1 and side 2 right sides together on three sides only. Leave one side open for zipper.
  7. Trim corners. Turn right side out.
  8. Place open side of zipper on one open end of pillowcase and extend zipper to other end. Cut zipper about 3/8″ – 1/2″ past end of pillowcase. In this case, my zipper measured 12″. I usually buy longer zippers and keep several on hand so I can cut to fit for any project.
    Finished zipper.

    Finished zipper.

    Attaching the zipper.

    Attaching the zipper.

  9. Sew across zipper end several times to make sure the bottom of the zipper never unzips all the way.
  10. Switch to zipper foot on sewing machine.
  11. Unzip zipper.
  12. Place under side of zipper to right side of pillowcase, teeth side outside. Non-tooth side should be end to end with right side of pillowcase. Zipper will be upside down. Pin and sew.

    Naptime!

    Naptime!

  13. Do the same for the other side of the zipper. The placement will be the same, with the underside of zipper to right side of pillowcase, non-tooth side matching end of pillowcase.
  14. Stuff pillow inside the pillowcase, zip up, pop on the bed and take a nap!
Hi all! I’m Stacey Martinez 🙂
I love to design imaginative custom items for my active, crazy family. Bright colors and beautiful fabrics sing “Stacey, Stitch Me!” Let your imagination inspires you to breathe personality into every stitch!

Please leave comments, questions, helpful tips, or pictures of your pillowcase creations. I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

What I Do At Work All Day (Part 2)

What I Do At Work All Day (Part 1)

Just a view of my shop.

Just a view of my shop.

I’m currently the Key Tailor on a New York City based major network crime-procedural drama television show (Blindspot on NBC). I work mainly out of one of the Brooklyn studios with occasional on-set last minute fittings. Most of the work I do each day is for things that need to be ready for the actors to wear the next day on camera. What this means is that, over the years, I’ve become pretty fast at doing a variety of alterations (as well as patterning and constructing from thin air). In my industry, there are certainly a lot of excellent tailors but there aren’t all that many excellent and fast tailors. Here are a few of the tricks I’ve discovered along tQuhe way that help speed up some common alterations.

Shortening the Sleeves of a Men’s Suit Jacket (without fancy functioning buttonholes)

Topstitching on sleeve lining.

Topstitching on sleeve lining.

First, just go ahead and remove all the buttons. They’ll just be in your way. Turn the sleeve inside out and find the topstitching along the sleeve-lining seam. This is how the sleeve was originally put together. Open up that seam and turn your sleeve inside out. Take apart the mitered and straight corners but do not undo the lining from the rest of the hem. (Go ahead and release any stitching holding the actual hem up though.) Undo any fake buttonhole stitching that you need to. These should be on a chain stitch and easy to undo.

Press miter corner with point turner inside out.

Press miter corner with point turner inside out.

Measure up or down the distance you want to shorten or lengthen at your corners and redraw your miter line if you need it.

Re-stitch all corners at new hem marks. I flip everything back right side out at this time and press my corners and the new hemline. Use a handy point turner

Don’t undo original stitching at hem.

Don’t undo original stitching at hem.

and please don’t trim anything away from the mitered corner. If you press inside out first with the point turner inserted the fabric will go where it needs to. No need for trimming. One of the most annoying things is to go and alter a jacket sleeve only to find that someone has trimmed the miter corner, meaning I can’t lengthen the sleeve properly.

(Still don’t unattach the lining)

Redraw miter line.

Redraw miter line.

After pressing, turn inside out again. Then simply measure up or down (I use an old fashioned metal seam gauge) from the current stitching line the desired amount and sew along that line. If you are shortening, there is no need to undo the original stitching line. If you are lengthening, you will need to. Machine tack the seam allowances together at the seam to keep the hem up.

Sew new stitching line shortening hem.

Sew new stitching line shortening hem.

Turn everything back right side out and topstitch the seam of the sleeve lining closed, put your buttons back on and you’re done!

There are of course a few situations that will make this alteration a bit more challenging – such as functioning buttonholes or having to add fabric to the hem seam allowance because of lengthening. If I’m having a good day and nothing strange is going on inside the sleeve, I can usually do this alteration in 30 minutes.

Center Back or Side Back Alterations on a Suit Jacket

The time saving trick on this one is pretty simple. Open up the under vent seam and turn everything inside out through there. When done, just topstitch the vent closed again, no opening up the lining and sewing it back by hand.

Men’s Vest Alterations – Center Back or Side Seams

I’m a huge fan of bagging things out. Men’s vests are one of my favorite things because you can bag everything out through a mere 2 inches on one of the side seam linings. First, find the opening where the vest was bagged out originally, probably a small hand stitched couple inches on one of the inside side seams. If its not there (if the vest was bagged through the neck, make your own. Then pull the entire vest inside out through those two inches. It will fit.

Vest side seams are most usually put together with one stitching line through all 4 layers (fronts and backs with linings). On the side without the opening just stitch a new line taking in (or out, though most commercial vests don’t have a lot of seam allowance to let out) the desired amount. If the amount is significant, you may need to re-stitch the arms eye curve so that everything lines up properly under the arm.

If you need to take in the center back seams, undo at the neck and bottom hem, alter as desired, the re-sew what you released.

On the side with the opening, stitch in two sections, above and below the opening. In the 2 inch gap, sew through all layers except the back inside lining.

Pull everything back through your opening, press and voila!

I just topstitch my opening from the right side of the vest, hiding the stitches in the seam line.

Check out Part 2 here!

My next post will tell you about the one of the sneakier men’s suit alteration tricks – the old dart and drop! So keep a look out for the follow up and as always – keep sewing!

DIY - Keyboard Kozy

DIY – Keyboard Kozy

Ick, dust! I abhor dusty, dirty keyboards at work and at home. Those keyboard sprayers to get in between keys just aren’t enough for me. Time to make a cover to protect the keyboard while adding some flair to the office space!

Keyboard Kozy

Keyboard Kozy

I love projects like this. I can create something useful while adding some personality to my space. I’m adding butterflies from different fabric I picked up here and there. I try to buy a quarter or half yard of the popular designs of the moment. Doing so helps add all sorts of different designs to my collection so I’m more likely to have what I want or need on hand. I have a decent collection of butterflies and have been waiting for the perfect project to showcase them.

Level: Beginner

Time to Complete: 1 hour

Sewn By Machine: 1/4 in. straight stitch

***Washing and ironing materials before sewing is extremely important!! Measurements are based on material already washed. If they aren’t washed before sewing, they may shrink by an inch or more when washed later on, resulting in being too small.

Materials:

  • 1 – 19″ L x 7 1/2″ W Material for top of keyboard
  • 1 – 19 ” L x 7 1/2″ W Underside material
  • 2 – 19″ L x 1 1/2″ W Material for long sides
  • 2 – 19″ L x 1 1/2″ W Underside material
  • 2 – 6 1/2″ L x 1 1/2″ W Material for short sides
  • 2 – 6 1/2″ L x 1 1/2″ W Underside material

Any material to be used as accents on the keyboard cover – I used 3 rectangular butterflies.
I used two layers, the cover and then absorbent material for the underside of the cover. In my house spills are everyday events. I’ve learned to dual layer so spills are soaked up and less likely to damage anything. The keyboard cover can also be made with just one layer leaving off the underside backing. It’s totally up to the needs of your home or office space.

One Step Hem and Attach

One Step Hem and Attach

  1. Wash and iron all material.
  2. Measure and cut material.
  3. Sew accent pieces on cover top. I did not hem them beforehand. Instead, I hemmed and attached in one step.
  4. One Step Hem and Attach (see image)
  5. I used a petal decorative stitch when attaching my accents to add a bit of flare.

    Petal Stitch

    Petal Stitch

  6. Petal Stitch (see image)
  7. Sew side pieces together at ends, right sides together. (It is possible to sew each side to the cover top individually, but I found this much quicker and easier.

    Attachment of sides

    Attachment of sides

  8. Attachment of sides (see image)
  9. Iron seams open, making attachment to cover easier.
  10. Pin and sew side rectangle to cover.
  11. Turn right side out and iron seams open.
  12. For the inside layer, repeat all above steps.
  13. Pin and sew outside cover and inside layer, right sides together. Make sure to leave a 2″ – 3″ opening to pull material right side out.

    Top Stitching

    Top Stitching

  14. Pull material right side out.
  15. Top stitch around outside of cover top, using 1/8″ edge.

    Finished Keyboard Kozy

    Finished Keyboard Kozy

  16. Top stitch around entire outside of cover, using 1/8″. Make sure to sew closed the opening left to pull material right side out.
  17. Top Stitching (see image)
  18. Place on keyboard and enjoy!
  19. Finished Keyboard Kozy (see image)

Stacey's StitchesStacey’s Stitches

Hi all! I’m Stacey Martinez 🙂
I love to design imaginative custom items for my active, crazy family. Bright
colors and beautiful fabrics sing “Stacey, Stitch Me!”
Let your imagination inspire you to breathe personality into every stitch!

**Please feel free to leave comments, questions, suggestions and pictures of your creations. I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

All natural fabric babe

Nature Babe

My first blog here explained my passion for finding fabric and developing an idea to use it. Yes, I am truly crazy about fabric and color. I think about each piece and decide if it is something I want to work on. That being said, I find it is very overwhelming because there are so many different types of textiles, and also so many uses. With each new discovery, I find myself designing projects I can sew with respect to supplying a handmade market online. My inclination at this time is to develop a shop on Etsy.com or similar platform where I can design baby articles. I love baby prints, blankets, snuggles and soft fabric and so soft Minky to adorn the tiny hands and feet of God’s most precious gift. Therefore, the fabric must be of good quality and purity.

Sewing is a process…

With all the buzz about eco-friendly products and natural products for the environment, more and more people are realizing the importance of chemical free goods for their homes and families. It certainly makes sense to me to be very particular about what is used for newborns and children. As far as my focus right now, Bamboo Terry and French Terry as well as Swaddle Gauze is popular for new or soon to be moms because of its pure qualities, minimum stretch and softness of the fabric.

Organic cotton.

Organic cotton.

Equally sought after is Organic Cotton.

I know many people have a problem with buying products that are labeled “organic”, partly because they tend to be more expensive. But in the case of the world’s production of cotton, it has been said that cotton crops are one of the most chemical intensive. Among the most toxic chemicals used in farming, as sited by the EPA, they affect our health and have a very negative impact on the environment.

Quality fabricsNot to drift off the subject of sewing and into eco-environmental issues, I am searching for bamboo and organic cotton to design some lightweight blankets and swaddles. Hopefully, I will be able to find good quality “organics” which are non-fading and durable so the they will last more than less expensive cuts. I have also learned that if I am taking the time to design something I want to sell, I will buy the best quality of fabric I can afford. It pays off in the long run.

Recently, I asked for an opinion about a design I made regarding fabric selections. They told me the quality of the fabric, the design of the print, and the quality of the construction are the most important parts of sewing. Sewing is a process, and learning the techniques, practicing different stitches, quilting, serging thread and other things make a finished piece a work of art.

Its time for me to order a walking foot and some ball point needles so I can practice quilting for my new baby goods. By the way, SewingMachinesPlus.com has quilting and Walking Feet especially made for Singer, Baby Lock and Janome among other brands. Check their website and find the one you need.

How to Exercise Self-Control in the Fabric Shop

How to Exercise Self-Control in the Fabric Shop

How to Exercise Self-Control in the Fabric ShopWith so many beautiful colors and textures, it can be really hard to resist buying up ALL the fabric in the store. Things like budget, project specifics, and potential use fly away in the midst of gorgeous bolts. If you’re like most people, though, buying every bolt of fabric isn’t actually feasible. Following these tips will help you stay in control of your bolt buying and your bank account.

Bring Your Pattern

Bring your pattern with you, even if you know how much fabric you need. Having it physically in your hands – in the way of grabbing endless bolts – helps you remember why you’re in the fabric shop and actually prevents you from grabbing every bolt you see. It’s a way to ground yourself in the heaven of the fabric store.

Don’t Drop In

It may be tempting when out running other errands to simply drop in to the fabric shop for a break. Don’t do this. Without a specific project in mind, it’s far too easy to buy reams and reams of fabric that will only wind up in your stash supply and may falter there for years without being used. Instead, schedule your fabric shop trips to coincide with specific projects.

Make Fabric Shopping an Event

Instead of making fabric shopping a stop on the tour de errands, make it a special event. Allow yourself lots of time to luxuriate in the bolts of fabric before you have to make a purchase. The more time you spend, the fewer “must have” fabrics will leap off the shelves and tables at you. When you’ve narrowed the selection down, it’ll be much easier to choose just the right one for your project without bringing home a bunch of other options too.

Bring Your Budget

Although it’s not possible to bring your bank or an ATM, you can bring other physical reminders of your budget. Even a piece of paper with a number on it would be sufficient. The goal is the same as with bringing your pattern – having something to hold on to helps you remember you can’t buy every bolt in the store and also keeps your hands busy so they can’t grab every bit of fabric in sight.

What else do you do to control yourself in the fabric shop?

Fabric Stash Ideas

Fabric Stash Ideas

If you’re like me you’ve got a giant bin (or two) of left over fabric from projects dating back to the stone age. It takes up valuable closet space, but you refuse to let it go. Maybe it’s even a point of contention with your spouse/partner. With these fun ideas you can free up your closet space, make some fun projects, and maybe make a little money on the side too.

Fabric Stash Cash Wallet

Fabric Stash Cash Wallet

With just a small bit of fabric scraps, some ribbon, and a quick row of stitches you can make a unique cash or coin wallet. Measure out your scrap so that it is the dimensions of a credit card (2x height), plus seam allowances and room for a ½ inch ribbon. Fold it in half with right sides together and stitch up the sides. Make a pocket for the ½ inch ribbon and sew that up. Feed the ribbon through and turn the cash purse right side out.

The ribbon can be tightened to close the wallet and prevent spillage in a large purse or bag. It’s cute, unique and keeps all credit cards, cash and coins neatly organized. Even better, you can make a bunch and give them as gifts or sell them at craft fairs or on Etsy.

Fabric Stash Rag Clowns

Fabric Stash Rag ClownsTo give credit where it’s due, this is an idea I’m stealing from my great-grandmother. Right up until the day she died, just shy of 100, she made these adorable clowns. They were all over her apartment and each of the grandkids and great-grandkids had at least one. I’m not completely sure how she did it, but the basic idea is this.

Cut a circle of scrap fabric, fold it in on itself so that the edges meet in the center and sew it into the now smaller circle. Make a bunch of these and then string them on wire to create clown legs, arms and body. Add a pre-purchased head and voila! So cute! For extra fun you can add bells on the ends of the arms and legs and/or an accessory like a necklace. Sure to be a hit with any children in your life, at craft fairs, and likely a best seller on Etsy.

What other ideas do you have?

I Didn’t Think It Would Look Like This

I Didn’t Think It Would Look Like This

Oops!We’ve all been there. You spend hours, days even, working on a sewing project. In your mind, you’ve got this image in your head of the gorgeous completed project, but when it’s finally done it doesn’t look anything like you thought it would. You thought it would be a simple one, so you didn’t bother with a muslin mock up, but it’s not at all what you expected or wanted. So now what?

Grumble

If you’re like me, you spend a fair amount of time grumbling and cursing about the “messed up” project or worrying about what you’re going to wear to the event instead. This is helpful short-term. It lets off the stress and and can be cathartic, but it doesn’t really solve anything.

Alter

Once you’ve finished grumbling and worrying, try the piece on again. Take a careful look at the seams. Can you alter them to change the fit so it’ll more closely match your vision? Maybe adding some darts or a tuck at the waist would help?

Accessorize

Often the picture on the front of the pattern package shows people wearing shoes or jewelry. Can you add your own accessories or shoes to make the item more closely match your imagined outcome? Maybe a shawl or scarf would help?

Change it Up

Sometimes, when choosing a fabric, you might choose one that turns out not to flow the expected when it’s all sewn up. In these cases, rather than remaking the entire project, add sections of another fabric in areas that will help the flow. It’s nerve wracking to cut apart a completed project, but since you’re not going to wear it the way it is anyway you don’t have much to lose.

Embellish It

Try adding a little pizazz to change the look of your sewing project. Patches, lace work, embroidery, beading, or other fancy details can completely alter the look of your project and provide it with a touch of class or color that may help it more closely match the vision in your head.

Combine It

Depending on how different your vision is from the completed project, combining two or more of these techniques may be necessary. In most cases, though, it’s possible to save the project and make it work for you – sometimes in ways you didn’t expect.

What other techniques have you tried to make your project work?

Quick Quilts: Time-Saving Tips

Quick Quilts: Time-Saving Tips

Time-saving Tips for Quick Quilts

Many sewists want to delve into quilting but are daunted by the amount of work required.  It is true that any quilt is a labor of love, however, quick quilts are easier to make than more intricate quilts.

This simple quilt has a super soft flannel backing and may be the most loved and cuddled quilt I have made yet.

This simple quilt has a super soft flannel backing and may be the most loved and cuddled quilt I have made yet.

Quick quilts start with a simple design, using large square and rectangular blocks, rather than many small or fussy pieces.  These easy designs ensure beginners more enjoyment, completion, and success.

Do not choose an intricate star pattern and a bed sized quilt for your first foray into quilting, for example!  This would only result in frustration.

Baby, crib, and lap quilts make great first projects, or you can make a small wall or table quilt.  Starting small ensures an enjoyable, do-able project that will make you proud.

Quick quilts are not just for beginners, though. Everyone loves quilts and, with these, you can give quilts as gifts more often. Let’s look at some tricks to quick quilts.

Many steps go into “building” any quilt.  These are:

  • Design
  • Cutting
  • Patchwork, the “quilt top”
  • Making the “quilt sandwich” and basting
  • Quilting
  • Binding

Quick Quilt Designs

I spy with my little eye...A quilt begins with the patchwork design.  Quick quilts use large square and rectangular pieces for faster completion.

Another option is to just skip the patchwork step. You could use “cheater” patchwork print fabric instead, and quilt along the lines. Or choose a plain fabric and sew your quilt in the “whole cloth quilting” style.  These are easy ways to save time and trouble.

But you won’t want to make many quilts using this method, because the patchwork is the foremost fun of making quilts!Here is a simplified, quicker version of the baby quilt I showed how to make in a previous post.

Specialty and novelty fabrics work well showcased in large squares.  Add interest and coherence by adding frames or borders between the individual squares.

Here is a simplified, quicker version of the baby quilt I showed how to make here.  It uses larger and fewer blocks than I used for that quilt.

Saving Time with Patchwork

There is one important time-saver that all quilters must embrace: the rotary cutting tool.  Every quilter needs a rotary cutter, a self healing mat, and a clear ruler to use in cutting patchwork.  These tools make cutting many pieces at a time a breeze, and ensure precision.  Perfect pieces are essential for patchwork; this is not easy to achieve using scissors.

The “Quilt Sandwich:” Saving Time in the Basting Step

The quilt sandwich consists of a backing, a batting, and the quilt top. These are usually basted together using long running stitches.  I like to skip this step and baste my quilts using quilter’s safety pins. This is quicker than sewing stitches and having to remove them later.  Unpinning as needed is faster and saves steps.

An even quicker way to get your quilt layered, basted, and ready for quilting is to use basting spray.  Spray this between the layers to hold them together and there will be no need for pins or basting stitches. This can be a huge time saver, but be careful when using this method.  Take care to ensure all layers are smooth, and be careful as well not to overspray, because this can be messy.  You may like to prepare a place for taking this step outdoors. Otherwise, use a well ventilated room. You might even like to wear a mask or bandana around your face to avoid breathing in fumes.

Saving Time Quilting

The quilting is the actual stitches sewing the three quilt layers together.  Quilting can be elaborate or simple, and dense or sparse.   Many quilts combine more than one quilting pattern and density.

The easiest and simplest way to begin quilting is the “stitch-in-the ditch” method.  Do this by sewing quilting lines along the seams of the patchwork squares.  I recommend that you begin your quilting journey using this method, because it is easiest and fastest by far.

Saving Time in Binding

Most quilters make their own binding strips.  This is easy to do with a rotary cutter, but as a time-saving measure, you can skip this step and use packaged bias or quilt binding instead.  These come in an array of basic colors and you can find them to match most any quilt.

Most books say to sew the binding along the front of the quilt by machine, but to sew the back down with hand stitches.  If you are a purist, you will want to attach your binding along the quilt back by hand.  There are no quilt police, though, so you can save time by sewing the binding down with your machine. Use the same color thread as the binding, take care with this, and chances are no one will notice or mind.

Skipping the Binding

You could save more time by skipping the binding entirely.  One way to do this is to build your quilt sandwich in a different way. Instead of layering the quilt with the right sides out, layer these right sides together. Place the batting layer on top, then sew around the edges, leaving an opening for turning.  Clip the corners and turn right sides out, slip stitch the opening closed, then pin and quilt.  This takes care to do well, but can save you the entire binding step.  The edges of this quilt will not be near as durable and long wearing as a bound quilt.

In addition, I have also cheated on this step by using my serger.  I serged decorative thread around the edges of my quilt instead of using binding.  This looks great, but again, is not as durable a finish as traditional binding would be. Therefore, this might work better for a wall quilt than a baby quilt, which would be more frequently washed.

Just Do It!

Making quilts is fun and worthwhile.  Saving time and frustration by making quick quilts is the best way to get started.  If you ever wanted to make a quilt, don’t waste any more time wishing you could and just do it!  You surely can and you will be so glad that you did.

Teaching Kids to Sew

Teaching Kids to Sew

How Young is Too Young

Does your daughter (or son) hang around while you’re sewing? Do they seem really interested? Maybe they even beg you to show them or let them help? If you’re like most parents, this makes you happy that they’re interested, but unsure when is the right time to get them involved in your hobby.

Like many things in the course of childhood, the decision of when to teach your child to sew isn’t as much about chronological age as it as about maturity level. Before you teach your child to sew, they need to exhibit patience and ability to sit still and pay attention for an hour or so at a stretch. Manual dexterity helps, but isn’t absolutely necessary since you’ll be there to help with items like pinning and cutting.

Step 1: KISS

Even if your child doesn’t love momma kisses and hugs, keeping their first sewing project simple and fun will help keep their interest. Bean bags, doll pillows, and similar items are a great way to engage your child’s interest and help them learn basic sewing skills. They’re small enough to be completed quickly and not overwhelm your child with several steps.

Bean bags can be cut freehand without the benefit of a pattern. Depending your comfort level and your child’s interest and abilities, you can guide them through the setup and use of the sewing machine. At the end, you can both have a great time stuffing the bean bags and playing a game of bean bag tag.

Step 2: A Tougher ProjectHelp your child learn to read the pattern and understand how to lay out the pattern pieces.

 

Assuming the first project went well and they’re still interested, you can help your child pick a simple pattern to work on. Projects like simple doll clothes for American Girl sized dolls or a basic stuff animal can be great options. Give them some guidelines and set them free to pick out fabric.

 

Help your child learn to read the pattern and understand how to lay out the pattern pieces. If they’re up to it, explain about the different ways to fold the fabric based on how the pattern needs to be laid out. If you think they’ve got the dexterity, it might be appropriate to let them help you pin and/or cut the pieces. As with the simple first project, let them help you with the sewing machine if it seems appropriate to do so.

Things to Remember When Teaching Your Child to Sew

  • Every sewing project is unique – so is your child
    • Go at their pace
    • Keep their physical needs/abilities in mind
  • Start small
    • Keep it simple with an easy, fun project
    • Judge their interest and only move on to a tougher project if they want
  • Be patient
    • Just as many parents can’t teach their kids to drive, teaching your kid to sew may not work out
    • If teaching your child to sew is too stressful for both of you, check around for classes. Often places like the local YMCA will offer sewing classes for kids.