Tag / serger

Sew a Rice Pack Whole Body Heating Pad
by Millie Green

How to Sew a Rice Pack Whole Body Heating Pad

How to Sew a Rice Pack Whole Body Heating Pad

You can sew a rice pack heating pad to any size at all.

The first one I ever made was a rectangle maybe about four by six inches. Okay, maybe it was a little bigger than that, but in use, it turned out to be silly small and I wanted a larger one.

I have made smaller rice packs that serve a neat purpose, though.

These make sweet pocket warmers when stuffed with rice.

These make sweet pocket warmers when stuffed with rice.

For a heating pad, bigger is better. So I made a large one with a folded kitchen towel and a big bag of rice, and this was a helpful friend for some time.

But have you ever wanted a full body hugging heating pad? I have, every month for some time now. I have wanted one to wrap around my tummy, and my dear and I have both wished for something bigger for pains in the neck and shoulders, too.

So I bought a huge bag of rice in bulk and decided to finally sew a rice pack heating pad big enough to wrap around.

So I bought a huge bag of rice in bulk & decided to finally sew a rice pack heating pad big enough to wrap around.

So I bought a huge bag of rice in bulk & decided to finally sew a rice pack heating pad big enough to wrap around.

Here’s how I made it:

Materials

  • 2/3 yd sturdy fabric
  • 20 cups rice

Of course you need a sewing machine, thread, scissors and/or a rotary cutter and mat.

Step one

Fold the fabric for your heating pad in half so that it makes a long rectangle approximately 44 inches (it will likely be shorter than 44 inches after pre-washing your fabric) by 12 inches, and press.

Then, make a narrow hem along both of the long (~44”) edges. Or you can serge along these edges with your serger.

Step two

Now fold it again, with right sides together. Sew along both short edges. Leave the long end open.

Of course you can serge these seams, too.

Clip the corners, and turn right sides out.

Step three

Now you are going to measure and then sew four lines of stitching to section the rectangle into five sections. These lines will run parallel to the end seams you just sewed.

I found the middle, then measured four inches out from there on either side, and marked my first two lines to create the middle section. Then I measured eight inches out from each of these to create the other sections.

Sew these lines from the bottom but end them approximately 3/4 inch before you reach the top.

Step four

And there is your whole body heating pad, which will wrap all around like a warm & heavy hug when you need it.

And there is your whole body heating pad, which will wrap all around like a warm & heavy hug when you need it.

Scoop two cups of rice into each opening.  Hold the bag and be sure all the rice flows to the very bottom of the pockets.

Now, sew a long line, parallel to the open edges, to bisect the five sections into ten.

Step five

Scoop two more cups of rice into each of the remaining five sections.

Then you can sew the long opening closed. I turned this over and sewed it down again to make this seam stronger, too.

If you want to be extra careful to prevent the rice from spilling out while you sew, then take the extra time to baste the long opening closed with quilter’s safety pins.

And there is your whole body heating pad, which will wrap all around like a warm and heavy hug when you need it.

To use:

Microwave the heat pad to warm. Microwave ovens vary a lot, so you will have to determine for yourself how long you should heat yours. Five minutes seems about right for mine, but be careful not to burn yourself.

Remove the pad from the microwave, shake it up a bit and evenly distribute the heat. Wrap it around your tummy, your shoulders, even your legs. Or lie down and use the whole length along your back from top to bottom.  And feel better soon!

Repurposing Flannel Baby Wipes to A Snuggle Blanket
by Angela Porter

Repurposing Flannel Baby Wipes to A Snuggle Blanket

Hello there! I’ve been playing with something I would like to share with you.

Stitch the right sides together on all 4 sides, leaving a small space open on the last side.

Stitch the right sides together on all 4 sides, leaving a small space open on the last side.

Let me warn you, it is rather novel, as I haven’t seen this done before in sewing blogs or other instructions, but it works pretty well I think.

Recently, I several kinds of small baby wipes made from soft, warm flannel. Rather than 1 layer of flannel, and just a simple serger stitch, I designed them to be thicker and have no fraying edges when washed. Each square is approximately 9″ x 9″ finished as below.

So, I used 2 pieces of the fabric, and I stitched the right sides together on all four sides, leaving a small space open on the last side to place my hand inside and pull the fabric’s right sides to the outside. What? (I heard you thinking there!)

Think of throwing a pillow case in the dryer with the inside seams showing. When dried in the dryer and smelling like Snuggle, you put your arms inside, find both far corners of the pillow case, and pull them forward to you drawing the right sides of the pillowcase to the outside or the top side. So then, I carefully ironed the edges down so I could put top-stitching about one-quarter inch from the edge of the wipe. Finished product soft, bright, cuddly wipe.

BUT WAIT! There’s more

This shows how the seam was done, & it is sturdy like seam made in the traditional way.

This shows how the seam was done, & it is sturdy like seam made in the traditional way.

I thought why can’t I repurpose these cloths into something larger. It’s a small baby print, and with soft flannel on both sides, I brainstormed about how I can piece the two squares together without having to take the stitching apart of one side of each square to join them. That would involve doing all the squares accordingly, and would destroy my top-stitching.

This shows how the seam was done, and it is sturdy like seam made in the traditional way. This finished end to end seam reminds me of flat feld seams as used in my Pojagi pieces, although not quite. It also could be an alternate seam method for quilts without using a backing. A piece of batting could be added to each square to give a more padded feel to this alternate way of quilting, (like rag quilts but no raw edges or fringe.)

I hope you enjoyed my blog today, and I hope to see you again soon. I always welcome your experiences in sewing. After all, what would we do if we didn’t sew?

Take care for now.

Master Your Serger with Tote-Making Class
by Sarah Woodard

Master Your Serger with Tote-Making Class

Sewing Machines Plus in San Marcos, CA has the perfect class to help you master your serger, use your fabric stash & walk away with a fabulous tote bag!

Sewing Machines Plus in San Marcos, CA has the perfect class to help you master your serger, use your fabric stash & walk away with a fabulous tote bag!

If you’ve been using your serger machine for a while now, you’ve probably mastered many of the basics. And if you’re like me, you’re completely in love with your serger! But you’ve probably also noticed there are a lot of features you’ve never used. Some of them you may not need, but wouldn’t it be cool to at least know a few of them? I think so too.

Sewing Machines Plus in San Marcos, CA has the perfect class to help you master your serger, use your fabric stash and walk away with a fabulous tote bag!

Serger Class Details

This class is 2-hours a day for three consecutive Wednesdays in May. May 17, 24 and 31 from 3:30 – 5:30. You’ll need to bring you serger including the power cord, foot pedal and cord. You’ll also need a variety of serger feet, including standard, cording, lace applicator, cover and chain, ruffler, elastic and clear. If you don’t have all of these serger feet, don’t worry, you can buy them at SMP before class.

Don’t forget the fabric! You’ll need at least 7 coordinating fat quarters or scraps and one yard of Soft and Stable.  To go along with the fabric, you’ll also need to bring thread, zipper, buttons, piping and cording. Full class supply list and registration instructions available here. It’s a fun, affordable way to learn the ins and outs of your serger, connect with other stitch aficionados and make an adorable tote bag project.

When your serger tote bag is done, it’ll be great for you or as a gift for a graduating student. Plus, you’ll have a much greater understanding of your serger machine and all its features and accessories.

Are there other classes you’d like to see offered? Let us know! We’ll do our best to accommodate and provide classes of interest.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper
by Charlotte Kaufman

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

Ready for a DIY project that will last for years and is good for the environment (and your pocket book?) This year, instead of wrapping your gifts in holiday paper that will be thrown away after the presents are opened, consider making fabric gift bags instead. I made five different sized bags in under 20 minutes. Here is how.

Assemble your fabric.

Get all of the holiday-themed fabric scraps you’ve been hoarding. The sky is the limit on the sizes you can make as presents come in all manner of shapes, sizes and weights/heights.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

To keep this project FAST, you aren’t going to finish any of the seams, which means you need to use pinking shears, a serger or a zig zag stitch to finish your raw edges.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

Great deals on sergers here

If you’ve been thinking about getting a serger, SewingMachinesPlus.com has them on sale right now, right in time for the holidays. This Juki Garnet Serger is the one I’ve been looking at. I love that it comes with bonus feet and additional thread cones.

Square up your fabric, fold over, pin, and then sew a straight stitch around all three sides. Leaving the tops of the fabric gift bags exposed (but pinked) will give them a whimsical, handmade feel.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

Nice little folds

For this fabric, I decided to create box corners (think like a brown paper lunch bag).

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

I also wanted to add a casual drawstring. To do this without creating a casing, I marked every 1.5″ and then snipped the openings. I love these Clover Chalk-Liner pens. They are an essential part of my sewing tool kit. They mark precisely and I can just sweep off the chalk when I’m done.

Ribbon feeding trick

I used a safety pin attached to the end of some twill tape to feed the twill through the holes I’d clipped to create the drawstring for this bag.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

The green bag has box corners and will stand up easily once filled. The larger red bag behind it resembles a pillow case in shape and will be perfect for larger, bulkier gifts.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

I had the most of this pine tree fabric. Because of the orientation of the trees, I couldn’t fold the double the fabric over to quickly create rectangular bags (if I did that, one side of the bags would have upside down trees). Instead, I cut four even pieces and then placed the pieces on top of each other (2 bags total), right sides together. Then I pinned, pinked and sewed them together.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

Last but not least

My final piece of fabric was a large, gingham napkin that I’d been holding onto. For this, I thought it’d be fun to create a barrel shape with a circular end. I dug out my compass to make the circle. I knew the circumference of the finished bag would be 25″ so I used the formula d = C/π. I then added .5″ on either side for seams and my diameter was just under 9″.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

Isn’t it darling? Now it was time to wrap some gifts (This was sooooo easy. So much easier than using traditional wrapping paper, scissors and tape).

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

I used some trims I had on hand, a velvet green ribbon, a red fleece ribbon and some white satin binding to close everything up.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

I love that I can re-use these year after year and they are reminiscent of Santa’s bag of gifts too.

DIY Fabric Gift Bags instead of Wrapping Paper

Happy Holidays!

—————————–
Charlotte Kaufman is a writer and sewist in Mammoth Lakes, California. She specializes in marine and home interiors and continues to fall more and more in love with quilting. You can follow her at charlottekaufman.com.
Overlocker / Serger Vs Coverstitch Machine -- What's the Difference?
by Millie Green

Overlocker/ Serger Vs Coverstitch Machine — What’s the Difference?

Overlocker/ Serger Vs Coverstitch Machine -- What's the Difference?

Overlocker/ Serger Vs Coverstitch Machine — What’s the Difference?

Serger vs. Coverstitch Machine — Do you need both?

What is the difference between a serger, an overlocker, and a cover stitch machine?

Serger vs Coverstitch: The Serger / Overlocking Machine

A serger and an overlocker are different names for the same machine. Americans generally refer to these as sergers, and nearly everyone else refers to them as overlockers. A serger performs an overlocking stitch, which is really more like knitting than sewing.

Overlocking, or serging, trims and binds seams so that the fabric can not unravel. It professionally finishes the insides of garments. There are rare occasions when one might use a serger to embellish outside seams or to finish hems, such as with rolled hemming, but in general the serger or overlocker is used in construction rather than finishing.

The serger is quite a different machine than a sewing machine, and requires threading of three or four pathways, including two loopers. These loopers accomplish the knitting involved in the overlock stitch. A serger also has knives, which cut seam allowances as it serges them. This machine does not replace the sewing machine, but works beside it accomplishing tasks no sewing machine can do.

The Janome 634D is my choice recommendation for the serger to buy. Here is my review of this model.

Serger vs Coverstitch: The Coverstitch Machine

A coverstitcher really takes all the trouble and error out of this otherwise tricky task.

The coverstitch machine is the star of the machine line-up for finishing tasks. A coverstitch machine beautifully finishes hems on most types of garments, especially knits. Many would-be seamstresses shy away from sewing knit garments because sewing stretchy fabrics using a sewing machine alone is decidedly tricky. While a serger is certainly helpful (some would say essential) in sewing with knits, nothing is as helpful for working with knits as a coverstitch machine. These sweeties allow knits to be turned and hemmed beautifully and quickly, with a stretchy seam that will not break.

For me, hems are perhaps the most difficult task in garment sewing, but the only reason I feel this way is because my machine arsenal has not previously included a coverstitch machine. A coverstitcher really takes all the trouble and error out of this otherwise tricky task. And speaking of tricky tasks, a coverstitch machine can also attach lace, elastic, or other trim to any garment in a hurry, again with a stretchable seam that will not break. It can even take the trouble out of attaching bindings.

When looking at the serger vs coverstitch machine, a coverstitch machine looks more like a sewing machine than a serger does. And a coverstitch machine is similarly uncomplicated. A coverstitcher only has one looper, and it doesn’t have any knives. This makes the threading of a coverstitch machine straightforward and easy to do. You may leave the coverstitch machine threaded and waiting to perform its hemming whenever you need it. I love the simplicity of a machine that can sit patiently waiting to perform its job beautifully and quickly. Having a coverstitch machine waiting to hem garments means you will actually make garments, rather than being daunted by the trouble of hems!

Coverstitch Machines: Simple yet Versatile

A coverstitching machine is versatile, despite its simplicity. With most, you can use one, two, or three needles. There are also a couple of different configurations that you can use with two needles, to make narrow or wide rows of hem stitches. A single needle can be used to knit the chainstitch, which is a beautiful stretchy seam. A chainstitch can be used for both utility and decorative effects.

I recommend the Janome 1000CPX CoverPro as the best coverstitcher to buy. As I have said before, I really trust Janome. I prefer this brand as being the best value for user-friendly, high-quality machines.

You can begin using your coverstitch machine immediately, and use it often, without ever needing to buy attachments or extra feet. However, you can get the most from your coverstitcher and do lots of things with different attachments.  A clear foot is nice to have. You can get a binder attachment which will neatly attach binding to most any project. You can also buy cording and gathering feet, a pintucking bar, a feller, belt looping folder, and more. None of these are necessary, although you will really appreciate having a clear foot.

Serger vs Coverstitch: Combo Models

One choice when thinking about the serger vs. coverstitch machine is to buy one machine to perform both functions. For folks without the room for multiple machines, there are combination models that will perform both overlocking and coverstitching.  This may be a sensible choice for you, rather than buying two machines.

I recommend this choice only for someone with quite limited space or budget; my preference is to have separate serger and coverstitch machines if possible. That’s because it is more expedient to have each machine set up and ready to do its job. Then you can just move back and forth quickly between the two machines as you need each. This is easier than having to reconfigure a complicated serger when moving back and forth between tasks. I’m told it really only takes a moment and is an easy chore to do, however. I know many sewists love their combo serger/ coverstitch machine and use it regularly for both tasks.

A combo model is a good budget choice for people who want to make garments and need both overlock and coverstitch capability, without spending a lot of money.

Be aware that this choice is a compromise. A serger with coverstitching capability won’t have a free arm. This feature makes a separate coverstitch machine a useful joy for hemming. Nor can combo machines perform as perfect an overlock or coverstitch as separate machines will. To get the best of both worlds, buying a separate serger and coverstitch machine is the way to go.

Serger vs Coverstitch: You Need Both!

So now you know that it is not a question of which machine to choose, serger vs. coverstitch machine. To beautifully and professionally produce and finish quality garments, you need both. You can choose to satisfy this need with a complicated serger that performs both functions. Or you can satisfy both needs with a separate serger and coverstitch machine. Either way, upgrade your machine arsenal and uplevel your sewing by including overlock / serging and coverstitch capabilities to your lineup. You and your wardrobe will be glad that you did!

Overlocker / Serger Vs Coverstitch Machine — You want both!

Janome 634D Serger Review
by Millie Green

Janome 634D Serger Review

Why should you buy a Janome 634D serger? A serger is the one tool that can quickly boost your sewing to pro level, and the Janome 634D serger is my choice for the serger to buy. Janome has earned my loyalty with their always well-designed machines; I know I can trust this brand to provide high performance and quality. Janome packs all their machines with user friendly features, and the 634D is no exception:

Janome 634D features

  • 1 or 2 needle serging
  • Serge with 2, 3, or 4 threads
  • Lay-in threading
  • Automatic threader for lower looper
  • Retractable cutting blade
  • Easy switch between serging and rolled hemming
  • Adjustable stitch length
  • Variable differential feed: from 0.5 to 2.25
  • Cutting width adjusts from 2.0 to 5.7 mm
  • Spool pins, caps, and nets for greater thread choice
  • High presser foot clearance
  • Snap-on presser feet
  • Thread cutter
  • Seam guide
  • Waste catcher
  • Accessory box
  • 2 access doors
  • Convenient carry handle

While this impressive list of features is enough to convince anyone that the Janome 634D is an excellent value, choice machine, there is more to it than this.

Janome 634D is fast, quiet, compact and smooth

Janome 634D Serger Review

Janome 634D Serger Review

This sweet baby sews 1,300 stitches per minute, which means you can get a lot more done in a fraction of the time. For comparison, most regular sewing machines sew between 700-900 stitches per minute. It sews quickly but quietly, and makes much less noise than many other sergers.

Though the 634D is equipped with a strong motor, its housing is compact for easy portability. Measuring just 16x16x16 inches, it easily fits a small table and is not a monster to move. It weighs in at less than 21lbs, so it won’t hurt your back to carry it with the convenient, built-in handle.

That strong motor serges smoothly. My first Janome serger was a more economy model, and while it works well, I had to place a thick rubber pad underneath it to prevent it from jiggling all over the table. No mat is needed with this Janome, however; the 634D is a smooth operator.

I would describe the motor on the economy Janome machines as being like a Honda Civic; they are dependable and sturdy and a great and affordable way to get you where you want to go. In contrast, the Janome 634D “drives” more like an Acura, with more power, speed, and a smoother ride.

The Janome 634D offers more options

This machine offers almost endless options for serging. It can do a 2 thread stitch, whereas lesser models need at least 3 threads.  The Janome 634D can use from 2, 3, or 4 threads. It can also use either 1 or 2 needles. The cutting width is highly adjustable, offering a wide range of possible options. You can even disengage the cutting blade entirely and serge without cutting at all.

The Janome 634D can also further save on thread, because it comes standard with 4 spool caps and nets, allowing you to use regular spools of thread as an alternative to larger serger cones.  The spool pins will  accommodate the serger cones, too, of course; you can use either type of thread with this serger.

The Janome 634D is especially easy to use

Other makes of serger require you to change plates when switching between conventional sergering and rolled hemming. It is common to move back and forth between these two options, and Janome makes this much easier to do. Instead of having to switch out plates, you simply move a switch to change between serging and rolled hemming. The presser feet are easy to change, too; they simply snap on and off, with no trouble at all.

This serger also has automatic threading for the lower looper. It takes a lot of patience and attention to thread the loopers on other machines, but threading the Janome 634D couldn’t be easier. There are clear diagrams printed right on the inside of the machine for ease in threading the guides. And instead of praying for patience to thread a tricky lower looper, you just push a button and  it is magically threaded for you!

Another thing that I really appreciate about the Janome 634D is it that it is neater and easier to clean than other models. It has a handy waste-catching tray built in, so your sewing room floor will not be littered with thread tails and the trimmings your serger cuts from your seams and projects. Furthermore, it includes 2 doors, one on the front and one on the side, which more easily enables thorough cleaning.

Buy yours now

This machine could quickly take you from home sewist to professional seamstress. You need this reliable workhorse machine and now is a great time to buy it, since it is on sale at a great price. Quit wishing for one and go ahead and order yours now!

How Many Sewing Machines Do you Need?
by Vanessa Nirode

How Many Sewing Machines Do you Need?

As a professional tailor and pattern maker in the film and television industry for about 25 years, I’m always on the lookout for a something that can make my job easier and more efficient.

As a professional tailor and pattern maker in the film and television industry for about 25 years, I’m always on the lookout for a something that can make my job easier and more efficient.

A subjective question, perhaps. In the cycling world, of which I am part, the number of bicycles is defined as x + 1 where x = the number of bikes you currently own. I suppose the same formula could be applied to sewing machine ownership. I’m continually fascinated by the scope and design of new machines and confess that, if I could, I would adopt one of virtually every machine I see.

As a professional tailor and pattern maker in the film and television industry for about 25 years, I’m always on the lookout for a something that can make my job easier and more efficient. I, as I suspect most tailors do, have a small collection of machines that I consider my “go-to’s”, that I can’t imagine doing my job without.

1. Juki High Speed Single Needle Straight Lockstitch Industrial Sewing Machine

I have an old model of this machine, the DDL-555-4. The beauty of this machine is that it only does one thing: sew in a straight line. And it does it exceptionally well. Even my old model is smoother and more sensitive than many domestic machines. Five layers of denim or a single layer of chiffon emerge from the presser foot with no complaint and straight, even, stitches. I rarely even have to adjust the tension. And the Juki is fast. The newer models have a speed adjustment on the motors so if you want to start out a little slower you can.

 

Check out the current models, the DDL-8700 and the DDL-5550N and go test drive one if you can. I think you’ll be able to tell right away that it’s a machine that will quickly pay for itself.

2. Brother lightweight Portable Machine

My SC9500, which is similar to the CS-5055, is the most incredible inexpensive machine I’ve come across in my twenty some years of sewing. Not only is it lightweight enough to put in a tote bag and carry on your shoulder but it also sews like a champ. I use it most often for its pre programmed buttonholes and stretch stitching. In my experience, a lot of domestic machines produce less than ideal buttonholes. The Brother never falters: each buttonhole is perfect and akin in quality to those in manufactured clothing (where they use a machine that does nothing but buttonholes).

3. Bernina

Everyone I know in the film business owns at least one Bernina.

 

Everyone I know in the film business owns at least one Bernina. For many, their Bernina is their prime machine, the one they use most often. I’ve yet to find a model, or hear of one, that doesn’t work well. I have an old mechanical model, which is still made in the form of a 1008. The advantages of a mechanical sewing machine lie in its durability and ease of use. I keep my old school Bernina mechanical on the wardrobe truck of whatever show I’m currently working on. I’ve had the same one for twenty years and its never ever failed me – despite years of being knocked around and asked to do impossible things like sewing through three layers of glued leather in an inordinate short amount of time.

4. Reliable Blind Hem Machine

A good blind hemmer that doesn’t snag or pull and is easily adjusted for varying fabric weights is essential to my tailoring work. The Reliable is just that, reliable. The setup is easy and the machine, though technically not a portable, does pack up nicely and can be transported to a work site.

5. Serger

There are so very many sergers to choose from. The first question to answer when choosing which one to buy is: what you will mainly be using the machine for? Do you need something to efficiently finish seams? Or will you be sewing entire garments with it? Do you want a machine that also does a cover stitch?

The automatic rolled hem feature is game changing.

My favorite is the Juki Garnet Line MO-623 1 needle 2/3 thread Serger. The machine is dependable, smooth, easy to thread, and fast. The automatic rolled hem feature is game changing. As opposed to many machines where you need to change the presser foot, with the Juki, you manipulate the fabric with built in fingertip control.

How Many Sewing Machines Do you Need?
by Vanessa Nirode

How Many Sewing Machines Do you Need?

A subjective question, perhaps. In the cycling world, of which I am part, the number of bicycles is defined as x + 1 where x = the number of bikes you currently own. I suppose the same formula could be applied to sewing machine ownership. I’m continually fascinated by the scope and design of new machines and confess that, if I could, I would adopt one of virtually every machine I see.
Everyone I know in the film business owns at least one Bernina. For many, their Bernina is their prime machine, the one they use most often.

As a professional tailor and pattern maker in the film and television industry for about 25 years, I’m always on the lookout for a something that can make my job easier and more efficient. I, as I suspect most tailors do, have a small collection of machines that I consider my ‘go-to’s’, that I can’t imagine doing my job without.

1. Juki High Speed Single Needle Straight Lockstitch Industrial Sewing Machine

I have an old model of this machine, the DDL-555-4. The beauty of this machine is that it only does one thing: sew in a straight line. And it does it exceptionally well. Even my old model is smoother and more sensitive than many domestic machines. Five layers of denim or a single layer of chiffon emerge from the presser foot with no complaint and straight, even, stitches. I rarely even have to adjust the tension. And the Juki is fast. The newer models have a speed adjustment on the motors so if you want to start out a little slower you can.

Check out the current models, the DDL 8700 and the DDL 5550 N and go test drive one if you can. I think you’ll be able to tell right away that it’s a machine that will quickly pay for itself.

2. Brother lightweight Portable Machine

My SC 9500, which is similar to the CS-5055, is the most incredible inexpensive machine I’ve come across in my twenty some years of sewing. Not only is it lightweight enough to put in a tote bag and carry on your shoulder but it also sews like a champ. I use it most often for its pre programmed buttonholes and stretch stitching. In my experience, a lot of domestic machines produce less than ideal buttonholes. The Brother never falters: each buttonhole is perfect and akin in quality to those in manufactured clothing (where they use a machine that does nothing but buttonholes).

3. Bernina

Everyone I know in the film business owns at least one Bernina. For many, their Bernina is their prime machine, the one they use most often. I’ve yet to find a model, or hear of one, that doesn’t work well. I have an old mechanical model, which is still made in the form of a 1008. The advantages of a mechanical sewing machine lie in its durability and ease of use. I keep my old school Bernina mechanical on the wardrobe truck of whatever show I’m currently working on. I’ve had the same one for twenty years and its never ever failed me – despite years of being knocked around and asked to do impossible things like sewing through three layers of glued leather in an inordinate short amount of time.

4. Reliable Blind Hem Machine

A good blind hemmer that doesn’t snag or pull and is easily adjusted for varying fabric weights is essential to my tailoring work. The Reliable is just that, reliable. The setup is easy and the machine, though technically not a portable, does pack up nicely and can be transported to a work site.

5. Serger

There are so very many sergers to choose from. The first question to answer when choosing which one to buy is: what you will mainly be using the machine for? Do you need something to efficiently finish seams? Or will you be sewing entire garments with it? Do you want a machine that also does a cover stitch?

My favorite is the Juki Garnet Line MO-623 1 needle 2/3 thread Serger. The machine is dependable, smooth, easy to thread, and fast. The automatic rolled hem feature is game changing. As opposed to many machines where you need to change the presser foot, with the Juki, you manipulate the fabric with built in fingertip control.

Boost Your Sewing Skills To Professional Quality In One Quick Step
by Millie Green

How To Boost Your Sewing Skills To Professional Quality In One Quick Step

After learning to use a sewing machine, the best thing you can do to produce more perfect and professional projects is to use a serger. The serger is the sewing machine’s best friend and it will be yours too.

Sergers are fast! Save time in production & cut down your fitting time. Not only that! A serger will create professional finishes & immaculate seams.

Sergers are fast! Save time in production & cut down your fitting time. Not only that! A serger will create professional finishes & immaculate seams.

What is a Serger?

A serger, which is also known as an overlock machine, produces professional finishes on garments and other projects. It does this by a process of knitting, rather than sewing.

A Serger is Fast!

The serger accomplishes all its tasks quickly and easily. It is the real workhorse of the sewing room and will speed a great many tasks immensely.

While most regular sewing machines can stitch between 700-1100 stitches per minute, a serger beats this by a lot, and can make up to 1700 stitches per minute.

What Can a Serger Do?

Serge your way to becoming a sewing pro with a serger in your sewing room.

Serge your way to becoming a sewing pro with a serger in your sewing room.

In a nutshell, a serger can:

  • Neatly bind and finish seams, and cut excess fabric from seams at the same time
  • Professionally finish unlined garments
  • Perform rolled edge finished hems
  • Make beautiful, delicate narrow, pucker-free seams
  • Make decorative edgings such as ruffled edges and scalloped trims
  • Flawlessly hem ruffles with rolled edging
  • Neatly and easily attach lace and other trims
  • Automatically gather
  • Sew stretchy knit fabrics with ease, including finishing sweater knits
  • Add strength with stretch seams
  • Decoratively and functionally seam fabrics by flatlocking
  • Create reversible items
  • Finish garments without facings
  • Feed 2 layers of fabric perfectly (the serger’s secret to handling knits)

The serger, with its rolled hem option, hems skirts beautifully in just a couple minutes!

With an overlock machine, you will have no more unraveling messy edges, either when you pre-wash your fabric or inside your finished garments or projects.

You can sew knits with ease with a serger.  If this were the only thing that a serger could do it would be well worth it to get one right now! But lucky for us the serger can do lots more!

Serging is Easy!

There is a myth that the serger is complicated or hard to learn to use. This may have been true long ago. But today many well-designed, user-friendly, high-quality sergers are available. There are features that make some sergers literally a breeze to use.

The Janome 634d, with its Jet Threading, is truly a breeze to use!

You Can Do It!

I was scared myself and hesitated to buy my first serger. I was reluctant to take on the task of learning something new which I feared as difficult.

As is often the case, all this procrastination and worry was silly; I was serging projects the very first day I got my serger! It was not complicated to learn: it was easy and straightforward. There was no learning curve to get started and I only regretted not buying one sooner.

I had never sewn on knit fabric successfully before– I tried but made a mess using my sewing machine! But I followed a pattern and made my first t-shirt pretty much immediately after I got my serger.

I learned more and more as I serged on, and I was continually amazed by how many new things my overlocker enabled me to do.

Having a Serger Offers and Opens Options Galore!

  • thick thread coverage for decorative edgings
  • sparsely covered seams for less bulk in seaming
  • narrow width and
  • wide width seam choices
  • flat or
  • rolled hems

Your skills and finished products will increase in quality and you will be able to make these nicer, better professional quality projects more quickly than you’ve made things before.

If you don’t have your serger yet there is no better or more important investment to make. No sewing room is complete without a serger, and having one more than doubles your production capability.

Janome’s 7034d Magnolia model is an easy-to-use entry level serger at a very affordable price!

Buy Yours Now!

If you want to create more professional quality projects in less time, you need a serger. And if you want to, you can do it, I promise!

Get your serger now and your skills will soar.

We have the best sergers on the market here at Sewing Machines Plus, from easy-to-use, quality entry level models to the jet threaded deluxe models that literally thread themselves.

Don’t put it off anymore, buy yours today. You’ll be so glad you did!